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Winemaker Karma - May 2000 KEY WORD : FOCUS At first I fooled myself into believing that this word only applied to my seven year old daughter. She - well in reality - I was having trouble getting out of the house in the mornings. My response was to ask her to focus on her morning jobs – eat, get dressed, etc. – thinking this would solve the problem. Indeed, we began getting out of the house on time. However, I think the trainee was really the dad. As I kept repeating ‘focus’, like a kind of mantra, it slowly began to sink in that this concept had a huge amount of application in my own life. In 1988, when St. Innocent was founded, I made wine on days off, weekends, and evenings. I made wine when I was not practicing pediatrics, the career that paid the bills. By 1994, St. Innocent began paying me a salary. This allowed me to spend less time in the medical office, and more time at the winery. Panther Creek sold that same year and the new owner, Ron Kaplan, asked me to be his winemaker. Of course I said yes. This was an opportunity to take over the winemaking at one of Oregon’s most well known wineries. It was only 31 miles from the winery. No problem. Later, in 1998, I decided to purchase Oregon Wines on Broadway, a wine shop in Portland. I decided that it was time to have a tasting room. Downtown Portland sounded like an ideal place. It was only 48 miles from the winery. I have lots of energy, I can think while I drive. All were good decisions, made for good reasons. All were important learning opportunities. All increased the demands for my time. In the spring of 1998 I went to France to visit wineries. I tasted, I asked questions, I experienced wine a new way. I realized I could make better wine; wine where the terroir was more transparent. I returned the next year and the next. Each time I learned something new, saw new possibilities. Last month I was in Alsace and was doing an interview for a winemaking journal. My friend Andre Ostertag was helping to translate. I was answering a question about the wines I made. Andre commented that I should focus on doing a few things and do them well. Making Pinot noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc was enough. He said that making Chardonnay and sparkling wine was just too many different wines. It would be impossible to focus. He said "You are a good winemaker, do what you do well." I didn’t know what to say. I have succeeded at focusing on specific problems. One year ago I wrote in this newsletter about new techniques I was using to make Pinot noir without the veil of tannins that obscured the terroir I wanted to emphasize. Last fall, I changed the methods of emptying the Pinot noir fermenters. The goal was to minimize the maceration of the delicate skins after fermentation. I also decided to keep most of the seeds out of the press. Both of these changes gave me greater control over tannin extraction. As a result, the 1999 Pinot noirs will rival the 1998’s. All of the white grapes were whole cluster pressed. This technique results in much higher quality juice. The downside is lower yields. I decided for quality over quantity. The result is the best white wines of my career. At our last meeting, my board of directors discussed the future of St. Innocent. The winery was close to its capacity. We needed to decide if we wanted to move to a larger facility, add staff, and make more wine or, we could stay here and focus on less quantity and better quality. We decided to make better quality wine. Focus on quality and the rest will fall into place. I just needed a bit more time. Last November I discussed with Ron, the need for the Panther Creek to have a full time winemaker. I was only available a day or two a week. Panther Creek is a high profile winery and they needed a winemaker to represent them in the marketplace and to care for the wine full time. Michael Stevenson, the assistant winemaker was the obvious choice. He was promoted. I remain the consulting winemaker to help in the transition. In return, I have more time to spend at St. Innocent. Two months later, we decided to sell Oregon Wines on Broadway. I clearly did not have the time or desire to oversee the operation of a retail wine shop. Although we more than doubled sales since we took ownership, the amount of St. Innocent wine sold was not significant. The shop was doing a great job of promoting Oregon wines in general and is a great service to the Oregon wine industry. This however, was not my mission in life. By the time you read this, the sale will be complete. It is now obvious to me that these changes represent a great opportunity to further focus my efforts. It is clear that I had a lot to learn over the last twelve years. I am certain that I am a much better winemaker as a result of my experiences. For years I have had my fingers in many pies – and enjoyed them all. A new opportunity is presenting itself. I now find myself with the time to focus my efforts on making wine at St. Innocent. I started St. Innocent twelve years ago to make great wine. I believe that by focusing my energies and passion I will make the best St. Innocent wines of my life. Mark Vlossak, winemaker Back to top of page